Ctrl+Alt+Del Room

Over the last few years I've had some fantastic experiences eating in some of the best restaurants in London. However, those nights were things don't quite come together it can be quite deflating. I know my tastes and thankfully the majority of the time I am more than satisfied. Except for last night, at one of the most sought after, and universally revered new restaurants, Typing Room. From mainstream critics like Marina O'Loughlin, to the very critical Andy Hayler gave it a very good score and deemed in One Michelin Star standard.

I don't know if it is just not to my tastes or I caught them on a bad night, but after spending near to a hundred pounds on a 7 course tasting menu and a glass of wine, it's unlikely I'll return to test that theory.

Blogger in the mist

Lyles, Shoreditch

Lyles @LylesLondon
Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6JJ

In the middle of Shoreditch, in the Tea building, is James Lowe & John Ogier's new restaurant, Lyles. They originally met having worked together at St.John's Bread and Wine, and on walking in the influence is apparent with a simple whitewashed, modest, open plan room that includes the kitchen. It is a huge contrast to the image conscious Boxpark opposite.

With 3 aperitifs and 6 courses, the set menu is testament to sourcing of quality seasonal produce with many different cuts and offal used no doubt contributing to the good value. For dinner, except for a vegetarian option, there is no option other than the set menu at £39. If you want to pick and choose go at lunch time where most dishes here, and more, are available. Not satisfied with just lunch and dinner, Lyles is set to be an all day affair with their own coffee bar and pastries open early aswell.

Matsuri, St.James's

Matsuri @MatsuriJ
15 Bury Street, SW1Y 6AL

It's hard to keep up with the opening and closing of restaurants in London. So anywhere open over 10 years is a rarity, while 20 years is somewhat an institution that is outside of all susceptible trends. Matsuri, is one of those places that is surviving the test of time with a quality ingredients for sushi and teppan-yaki. Teppan-yaki is either a 'love it or loathe' it, where your chef cooks in front of you on the griddle, which is sometimes given a bad reputation for over zealous theatrics for clapping seals that mask average quality ingredients. Thankfully not at Matsuri for some of the most flavoursome beef I've had in the capital, and there was still a fire show at the end.

Ember yard: Absolutely smoking

Ember Yard @SaltYardGroup
60-61 Berwick St, Soho

Combine great tapas of Spanish and Italian influence, insistence on great produce, throw in the latest trend du jour of smoking, add little seasoning, and you get Ember Yard, the latest opening from the dependable Salt Group. 

Since last year, Opera Tavern, has been one of my favourite eateries and places to take new people to London. It is one of the few places that does the superlative Ibérico pork meat rather than just the jamon, and sits nicely in the pricey but not extortionate value range. Ember Yard is another step up from this adding another layer, a smokey one at that, to an already successful formula.

Shoryu - Kingly court

London, Soho in particular, is awash of the heavenly scent of bone broth with several ramen bars opening within the last couple of years. Not long after Tonkotsu opened on Dean Street, Bone Daddies followed suit, with Shoryu Ramen hot on their noodle tail. Londoner's have clearly got a taste for what they like with these ramen bars. All are frequently packed to the rafters, and Shoryu have certainly capitalised on this trend opening their 4th restaurant, all within walking distance.  The latest Shoryu opening is in Kingly Court, a small court just off the fashion shopping hell/heaven (delete where applicable) of Carnaby street. Despite a seemingly small place they've managed it well fitting in 55 covers including a few seats at the open plan kitchen so you can be a chef voyeur as you eat. Thankfully, they've got several tables outside if you want to relax and enjoy your food minus the chaotic buzz inside.

                       

Pieds nus

Pied Nus @_piedsnus
19 Blandford Street, W1

Pop ups in London have extended beyond that of street food merchants dipping their toes in bricks and mortar, now extending to fine dining joints. Pieds Nus have opened a short term residency in Marleybone only 3 doors down from it's owner's L'Autre Pied. It's a story of  'don't judge a book by it's cover' as the food is far more appealing than that of the restaurant front. Also, the concept of 'little or no cooking' is undermined by precise sous vide temperatures appearing on several of the dishes on the menu. To roll your eyes would be to your detriment though, as from the vegetarian starter to the dessert it is quality "michelin star standard" food, beautifully presented, at outstanding value. With just over a month left, (and 4 courses for £20) get yourself down before it closes...if not just for the cheesecake.

All I want for Christmas is some reindeer moss

A Work in Progress by Rene Redzepi

Bound together in 3 interdependent books, Rene Redzepi's latest creation A Work in progress, is the epitome of his creative process; thinking about what people have done for ages, and coming at it from a completely different angle. Stands to reason, the centrepiece of this collection is not the recipes, but the journal with his musings as he tries to breakdown the process of creativity.  At the time of writing Noma was No.1 restaurant in the world, so if this was still a work in progress, then what does the future hold for Rene?

Hedone-ism

Hedone

301-303. Chiswick High Road. London. W4 4HH

It almost feels like I don't belong here at all. Tucked away in an inconspicuous corner of up-and-coming Chiswick, the sleek Scandinavian lines and open plan concept looks startlingly out of place amongst the local family Italian restaurants and chains. That's not to say it's an intimidating place once you get through the door. Despite the eye-catching plaudits from elsewhere (a rare 18/20 from Andy Hayler, number 70 on the world's best list and a Michelin star within a year of opening), the kitchen gives off a serene, aloof aura of calm from the moment the chefs started to filter in right up to their almost meditative wiping of the counter tops at the end of the service. We visited for lunch and went for the tasting menu, which incredibly changes weekly according to the high quality produce they receive.

Dissenting academy, Newington Green

Dissenting Academy @DissentAcademy
92 Mildmay Park, Newington Green N1 4PR

What gives a place that 'revisit factor'? The food? Ambiance? Service? Value? Convenient location? Attractive staff?! Maybe it's a mix.

There are some restaurants that I return to more than others. recent, The Dissenting Academy has been one of those places that I've gone back to time and again the past couple of months. The 'Cornwall Project', supplier of all things Cornish to places like the Ledbury, Pollen St. Social & Pitt Cue amoungst others, has taken over the kitchen, so you know the produce is of the highest quality. The beef they bring from Philip Warren is outstanding, one of the reasons that roast forerib dish at Clove Club was one of the standout things I've eaten this year. What's not elite is the cost, with most dishes at usual pub prices.

Food outta London: Lisbon

Originally I planned on going to Lisbon as a mini incentive to get myself in gear to finish my PhD thesis. Such as life, I've just got busier and busier. Starting my own business (Gourmet Focus) maintaining a couple of blogs, while doing a thesis is apparently not great if you like spare time. All the same, 4 days in Lisbon with glorious sunshine, culture and food has put me in great mood for the final assault. It also included without doubt the best seafood experience I've ever had.

Obika mozzarella bar

Obika @ObikaUK

11-13 Charlotte Street, W1T 1 RH

In the ruins of La Pearla, a great tequila bar and old haunt of mine and Shahz's, another branch of Obika, an Italian mozzarella bar has gone up. Along with my lack of interest in chain places, it's safe to say I had a few reservations on Obika. It's not they are inherently bad, just the concentration of the business becomes more about margins than the food. It's good to have your preconceptions challenged though, and be reminded to keep an open mind.

I like Obika due to their uncompromising focus on quality of produce from artisan producers. It really pays off with great simple food. 

The Grill at The Dorchester

The Grill is unlike any restaurant I've been to with bizarre Scottish tartan and murals of men in kilts, it was like eating in a plush Scottish shortbread tin, thankfully though they were playing soft jazz and not bagpipes. I doubt there are even places on the Royal Mile with this much tartan. Upon walking in there is a hushed atmosphere such is the level of decorum and slightly older clientele.

So onto the food. We went for the tasting menu, but realistically it was just a chosen set of the best dishes from the á la carte menu. 

Smokehouse, Islington

Smokehouse @SmokehouseN1
61-63 Canonbury Road, Islington N1 2DG

Not long after leaving the John Salt, Neil Rankin is back stoking the fire at a joint venture between the Pig & Butcher and himself. Rankin (also ex-Pitt Cue Co & Barbecoa) has a vast background in all things barbecue, and armed with his collection of Green Eggs, like something out of Game of Thrones, an offset smoker, and a robata grill they have put together a menu beyond just pulled pork and ribs. With covers for well over 50 this place has far more elbow space than other revered BBQ places like Pitt Cue...and a fair few more beers on the menu to say the least

This butter be good

WARNING: this post contains obscene amounts of delicious fat and calories. 

Many people are surprised when I tell them I have around 40g of butter every morning. Most people respond with 'Urrrgh' 'Why would you do that?', or a slap to the face. Bet you are sitting there thinking exactly the same. But why is there this instant reaction, after all butter is just churned cream, where the casein associated with heart disease and diabetes, is removed. Some of the healthiest people on the planet, Tibetans, are reknowned for their butter tea, and have ridiculously low incidence of heart disease. The dogma that fat is bad for you is not right, that half your required vitamins for you to work properly are fat soluble, does it not make sense that fat should be a larger part of your diet.

But before you take a big chunk out of that block of butter, please beware fats, and butters for that matter, are NOT created equal

A buttery prophecy

Our top 3 burgers

It's fair to say looking at the list of places we've been to amoungst everything else, we've devoured a fair amount of burgers. To celebrated bursting through the 20 (and 21) mark we've come up with our favourites. We don't always agree, especially when it comes to optimal seasoning, so no surprise that we've come to different conclusions. I think the question of the top burgers in the game is always a contentious issue though. What would be your picks?

Licky Chop

Licky Chop @LickyChops
Climpsons Arch, Arch 374, Helmsley Place London E8 3SB

I love the summer when the weather is like this (touch wood, sorry if I've jinxed it!). Eating Al fresco, and especially barbecue, really increases my enjoyment of social eating. However, most of the best BBQ joints in the city, like Pitt Cue Co, are inside. Bar a few pop up's and street food, there isn't enough to satiate my desires. 
Enter Licky Chop with their two wood fired oven behemoths. While it must be soo tempting to make a meat centric menu, LC give pride in place to some incredible vegetable dishes, as well as fish, and lesser used, but great tasting, meat cuts such as lamb belly, and onglet.

HKK

HKK (@HKKLondon)
88 Worship St, EC2A 2BE

There's a lot of history between me and Hakkasan. My first trip to the Hanway Place branch was a housewarming present from my family when I started at UCL - and my first Michelin starred meal. It started a long-standing love affair with the groups restaurants, particularly Yauatcha, their informal dim sum patisserie in Soho (easily top 5 restaurants for me). When I heard that former head chef Tong Chee Hwee was designing a bespoke tasting menu at this City-based outpost, I just had to go.

The US burger invasion: An Honest retaliation

Much has been made of the ever growing population of burger joints in London and the much deliberated 'fast food for the middle class'. With select cuts of rare breed beef, medium rare patties, brioche buns and fries doused in rosemary salt are common place, it has really taking off with the most popular places like MeatLiquor, Patty&bun, Honest burgers have hour long plus waiting times. Clearly this trend hasn't escaped the attention of those across the pond with Five Guys opening to align with Independence day, and Shack Shack from NYC, already synonymous with queues, the day after. Oh yes, and they happen to be within 300 metres of each other.

Both couldn't have asked for better burger beating news storm that surrounded George Osbourne and his Byron burger last week, with Five Guys and Shack Shack's openings being named dropped at the drop of a hat in every news article.

But what of the UK response, is there room for another 2 huge burger joints? Honest Burgers got ahead, under the radar, opening another branch this time in Camden Lock Market and hope to open another soon near Kings Cross. It was a heavy week for me, Meat Market on Sunday, the BurgerMonday from Youngandfoodish (including an phenomenal pastrami poutine), and then these three. I think I need a lie down...

Bain's Big Bacon Burger

We've gone through a far amount of burgers since starting this blog. Although I don't cook many at home, burgers are best with a few mates and drinks, I'd like to think I know what consitutes the making a a fine burger, from a juicy patty, bun to toppings. Introducing the "Triple B™ burger", I put together the following

• A good patty, I used The Butchery Ltd bone marrow burgers
• Demi-brioche bun, from St.John's Bakery
• Candied bacon, green streaky from The Butchery Ltd
• Blue cheese aioli, inspired by Big Dirty Burger
• Grilled lettuced, a la Pitt Cue Co
• Grill Tomato slice

Mi Casa Su Casa - Casa Negra

Casa Negra (@CasaNegraLDN)

54-56 Great Eastern Street, London, EC2A 3QR

Bodega Negra was one of our most memorable recent meals in Central London. I don't think that it was really down to the food. Don't get me wrong, we had some great dishes that night - the soft shell crab tacos stood out particularly - but it was more the combination of ambience, decor, service and music which made that evening special. If I had the money to (it is staggeringly expensive), it would probably be a regular choice in Soho, which probably explains why it's one of the biggest celebrity draws in London.

Pescado Tacos