92 Mildmay Park, Newington Green N1 4PR
What gives a place that 'revisit factor'? The food? Ambiance? Service? Value? Convenient location? Attractive staff?! Maybe it's a mix.
There are some restaurants that I return to more than others. recent, The Dissenting Academy has been one of those places that I've gone back to time and again the past couple of months. The 'Cornwall Project', supplier of all things Cornish to places like the Ledbury, Pollen St. Social & Pitt Cue amoungst others, has taken over the kitchen, so you know the produce is of the highest quality. The beef they bring from Philip Warren is outstanding, one of the reasons that roast forerib dish at Clove Club was one of the standout things I've eaten this year. What's not elite is the cost, with most dishes at usual pub prices.
The Dissenting Academy is a quirky pub with lots of contemporary art and graffiti around the place, a lot different from the usual generic gastropub decor. Loving the large Bill Hicks mural.
The menu is split in between 'small plates' and 'large plates'. Small plates being larger than tapas style, and all under £10. Not your usual run of the mill pub food, silver mullet with turnip tops and black garlic, particularly good, as was the pork collar with cavolo nero and celeriac.
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| Every pub should have a hanging cow |
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| Pork collar, cavolo nero & blackberries (£8!) |
Considering the standard of the food, the lighting of the place is a bit too dim to see how well put together the plates are. After all, you start eating with your eyes. Especially with the nights drawing even sooner, it would be nice to shed a bit more light on the situation.
The sunday roasts, what pub would be without them, the beef is particularly good, and the blueberry sourdough bread & butter pudding is hard for even someone with gluten sensitivity to resist.
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| Beef underblade |
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| Mullet, sprouting broccoli & pumpkin |
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| Blueberry sourdough bread & butter pudding |
It seems the best is still to come aswell. They are running a one night only 'Decandent Night' with lobster, dexter beef, Mangalitza(!), and Philip Warren's epic black pudding on 22nd November. Serious eating. More details here
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